A romantic train ride, with reservations

By Ed Murrieta/for the Northwest Guardian

ABOARD THE SPIRIT OF WASHINGTON – I caught the dinner-train spirit on the inaugural run from Tacoma to Lake Kapowsin this month.

Yeah, that was me exclaiming, “Wheeeeeeeeeeee” at the Midland overpass as the train rumbled above Highway 512.

I’d snaked and stumbled my way the length of the train, from the Olympic car to the Chateau Ste. Michelle car, whose open-air patio was in the lead as the Spirit of Washington Dinner Train returned to its new home, Freighthouse Square.

I’d ridden the dinner train the week before, as it wound down its run on the Burlington Northern Santa Fe tracks from Renton to Woodinville, where a stop-and-shop at the Columbia Winery preceded dessert. On Tacoma Rail’s tracks, dessert was preceded by a stay-aboard stop at Lake Kapowsin, where evergreens enchanted me with mirrored reflections off the water.

I think it’s a good thing that Highway 405 construction severed BNSF’s tracks and spurred The Spirit to move to Tacoma. The new route feels cozier, more in tune with the romantic spirit of rail-car dining.

The touristy menu, however, could use a spiritual lift.

Maybe it’s because I didn’t order salmon or the crab cakes (the latter is served for brunch), but I don’t understand what part of Washington’s spirit haunts the menus. Were those Moses Lake mashed potatoes? The spirit I tasted might as well have been the spirit of an Ohio Rotary banquet.

Veggie lasagna was served with a thick slosh of red pepper marinara that was sweeter than the ricotta and spinach overflowing between layers of pasta. Rosy prime rib had a little bit of everything prime rib should have: It was meaty, fatty and crusty in all the right places. A pig-out portion of roasted pork shank was pleasingly sweet. Sides of mixed vegetables were hand-cut and crisp-cooked.

The train passes Brown & Haley’s candy factory as it departs and returns to Freighthouse Square. Made-in-Tacoma Almond Roca cheesecake would capture the spirit of Washington better than my two servings of apple dessert with underbaked oatmeal topping did. Chocolate mousse cake was light enough to make me think I wasn’t eating dessert, but mousse cake is mousse cake from Mount Rainier to Montpelier. A Washington Pence peach pie with Olympic Mountain vanilla ice cream would be a better local option. Now, that would be a delicious spirit of Washington.

I think there should be a cheese course, too. How about opening a few cans of Cougar Gold or slicing up something from Beecher’s? Washington pears, apples and hazelnuts are these cheese’s spiritual complements.

Look at the wine list: It’s fortified with Washington wines, led by three Rieslings made by Woodinville’s Chateau Ste. Michelle, the largest producer of Riesling in the world. California, Oregon, French and German wines are also represented, but 22 of the 39 wines are Washington.

The Spirit Sampler is a tasty value at $12.99. Full-size servings of Spirit of Washington whites and reds (re-branded Chateau Ste. Michelle products) and a temptingly sweet Columbia Cellarmaster Riesling or Whidbey’s Vintage Port are paired with salad, entree and dessert courses.

I’d have reservations about the Reserve Sampler, mostly based on price: $24.99 (a $32.50 value, according to the menu). Dr. Burklin-Wolf, a German Riesling, was just shy of dry and took the cloying edge off the salad’s poppy seed dressing. The syrah that replaced the Columbia Cabernet wasn’t memorable. But a few sips of Covey Run ice wine made me glad someone else was driving the train.

I don’t know if this was intentional or coincidental, but some spirit had its mojo working: The busboy on my dining car looked like a young Kurt Cobain.

THE SPIRIT OF WASHINGTON DINNER TRAIN

WHAT: Dinner, lunch and brunch train excursion from Tacoma to Lake Kapowsin takes approximately 31/2 hours.

WHERE: Departs from Freighthouse Square.

WHEN: Dinner Wednesdays-Sundays; lunch and brunch Saturdays-Sundays.

HOW MUCH: $53.99-$78.99 per person. Children’s menus available.

FOR RESERVATIONS: 1-800-876-7245 or spiritofwashingtondinnertrain.com