Authorized newspaper of Fort Lewis, Washington
Pao Lo grabs apple fritters from a tray at his Pao's Donut & Coffee Shop, a Sixth Avenue store that features some of the best-tasting - and best-looking - doughnuts in Tacoma.
There’s no way of sugar-coating this: Doughnuts – fried in oil and dripping with artery-clogging appeal – aren’t good for us. But, oh, do the best of them taste good: sweet and tender, cakey and crackly, begging to be dunked in coffee or milk. With that in mind, I toured South Sound’s independent doughnut shops looking for the best of what’s bad for us.
Pioneer Bakery
120 S. Meridian St., Puyallup; 253-845-8336; www.thepioneerbakery.com
Doughnut dish: This old-fashioned scratch bakery produces delicious doughnuts. Cinnamon twists were like mini loaves of challah – braided ropes of dough with rustic, bread-like character. Maple bars were dense and tender, slightly chewy and not too sweet. Raised doughnuts were soft and chewy, tender but not airy. Fritters were as big bear claws – not the pastries, but actually animal paws and loaded with chunks of Granny Smith apple. Silky Bavarian cream highlighted tangy Bismarks.
Prices: 65 cents to $1 each, or $8 per dozen.
Hours: 7 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays, 7 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays.
Atmosphere: Quaint and comfortable, with seven tables.
What else: Coffee, sandwiches, cakes, pastries.
House of Donuts of Lakewood
9638 Gravelly Lake Drive S.W., Lakewood; 253-588-2647
Doughnut dish: Some the biggest doughnuts anywhere. Regular raised doughnuts measured 4 inches in diameter and weighed in at more than 4 ounces. (Most other raised doughnuts averaged 3 inches and 3 ounces.) They also had good character: Slightly chewy and very tender. A variety of glazed flavor options: orange, cherry, banana, blueberry and chocolate. One stand-out was simple: chocolate cake doughnut covered in powdered sugar, tender and light. Eggy, undercooked crullers were disappointing.
Prices: 70-95 cents each, $7.25 per dozen (mixed assortment, choice), $7.75 pick your own.
Hours: 6 a.m.-6 p.m. daily.
Atmosphere: Takeout and drive-through service only, no tables.
What else: Coffee and espresso drinks.
Pao’s Donut & Coffee Shop
6919 Sixth Ave., Tacoma; 253-565-4692
Doughnut dish: Not only are these some of the best-tasting doughnuts in town, but they’re also some of the prettiest. Crullers were light and airy, with a slightly crisp outer shell. Mini buttermilk bars were tender and tangy. Cake doughnuts covered with toasted coconut were tropically delicious. Cinnamon-kissed applesauce cake doughnut hit home in a very homey way.
Prices: 75-90 cents each, or $9 per dozen (or $7.50 for 12 75-cent doughnuts). Cash only.
Hours: 5 a.m.-4 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays.
Atmosphere: Seven tables, seating for eight at the counter.
What else: Coffee and espresso drinks, drive-through service.
Connie’s Donuts
5421 Pacific Ave., Suite A, Tacoma; 253-474-5059
Doughnut dish: Krispy Bars (or glazed buttermilk bars, actually) lived up to their names on the outside at least; inside they were tender and tangy. Crullers were light and airy. Cake doughnuts were moist. Blueberry and apple were unusual (and good) jelly choices.
Connie’s also makes some sugar-free doughnuts (using a commercial substitute that’s similar to Sweet’N Low). I tried a sugar-free fritter. It was nowhere near as sweet as regular fritters, but tasted bland. Still, a welcome option for diabetics.
Hours: 5:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. 6 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays.
Prices: 55 cents to $1.06 each. A dozen averages about $6.50.
Atmosphere: Spare but pleasant, with seating for 14 people.
What else: Coffee.
Frank’s Donuts & Muffins
14117 Pacific Ave. S., Spanaway; 253-535-4699
Doughnut dish: Daily specials for $2 per dozen are a big draw here, and it’s best to show up early before they sell out. Specials include cake, old-fashioned and buttermilk doughnuts in cherry, spice and blueberry flavors. I liked the raised glazed in different shapes – one looked like a tiki idol. Mini-buttermilk bars shaped so that their points resembled a duck doing an impersonation of Mick Jagger, weren’t only fun to look at, they were moist and tangy.
Hours: 3 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 6:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sundays.
Prices: 45-75 cents each. $5.80-$7 per dozen depending on style; $2 daily dozen specials.
Atmosphere: Simple and comfortable, with seating for 14 people.
What else: Coffee, drive-through service.
Kolby Donut House
15012 Pacific Ave. S., Spanaway; 253-537-2089
Doughnut dish: Two doughnuts stood out – a crumb-covered cake doughnut with chocolate and vanilla swirls inside. Not only was it a visual surprise, but also it was tasty. Another standout: Twist doughnut covered with powdered sugar and topped with sliced strawberries. Buttermilk, old-fashioned and glazed all pass muster. Crullers, however, were undercooked and eggy inside.
Hours: 5 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 5 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays.
Prices: 65-85 cents each. $6.96-$8.50 per dozen, depending on style. Day-old doughnuts $4.50 per dozen.
Hours: 5 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 5 a.m. 9 p.m. Sundays.
Atmosphere: Simple and pleasant, with 18 seats inside and six outside.
What else: Coffee.
Helen’s Donuts & Ice Cream
5601 E. Portland Ave., No. 4, Tacoma; 253-472-6491
Doughnut dish: Buttermilk bars were moist and tender, like brioche. Bear claws were amply filled with apples. Raised doughnuts were tender but airy, old-fashioned dense and slightly springy. Blueberry fritter topped with coconut was a welcome change of fritter fashion.
Hours: 4 a.m.-6 p.m. daily.
Prices: 70 cents to $1.05 each. $7.35-$9 per dozen depending on style.
Atmosphere: Simple and pleasant, with seating for eight people.
What else: Coffee and ice cream.
Happy Donut
305 Second St. N.E., Puyallup; 253-840-9398
Doughnut dish: Crullers and buttermilk bars stood out. Crullers were light and airy inside, slightly crispy outside. Buttermilk bars were dense and tender. Fritters were flat and greasy. Maple bars were like white bread with artificially flavored glaze.
Prices: 70 cents to $1.25 each, $7.98-$8.98 per dozen depending on style.
Hours: 4 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. 5 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays.
What else: Coffee and espresso drinks.
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